https://edunity.publikasikupublisher.com
1080
Edunity
Volume 2 Number 9, September, 2023
p- ISSN 2963-3648- e-ISSN 2964-8653
Doi:
https://edunity.publikasikupublisher.com/index.php/Edunity/index
ANALYSIS OF ROLAND BARTHES' SEMIOTIC THEORY AS
AN APPROACH TO ASSESSING URBAN FASHION
Farisya Inayatullah
1
, Deddy Wahjudi
2
Institut Teknologi Bandung, Indonesia
Email: [email protected]
ABSTRACT
Abstract: Semiotics is a technique of studying the workings and functions of signs. The researcher
analyzes Roland Barthes' semiotic approach which develops the ideas of one of the semioticians,
Ferdinand de Saussure, and tries to apply the study of signs more broadly. The focus of this
research is to find the meaning of a fashion phenomenon, namely urban fashion. Over time, the
urban word developed as a person's lifestyle, so that the urban word was associated with fashion.
In this study, the method used is qualitative. Carrying out a qualitative method system,
researchers can analyze an image or photograph with Barthes' semiotic approach developed from
Saussure, namely denotation, connotation, and myth.
Keywords: Theory Analysis; Roland Barthes Theory; Urban; Urban Fashion
Introduction
Phenomena that occur socially in society or culture are signs. They have more abilities
as humans compared to other creatures, namely in terms of communication and the
ability to create symbolic language (Sihabudin, 2022). Studying the systems,
conventions, and rules that allow signs to have meaning, namely semiotics. The word
semiotics comes from the Greek word simeon which means "sign". From the sign itself,
it can be interpreted as something that can be represented by something else, such as a
cloudy sign that there will be rain. Semiotics terminologically can be defined as a study
that includes objects and events of all cultures as signs (Muhammadiah, 2017).
According to Hoed, semiotics is a science that studies signs in human life. In general,
humans have the power to find meaning in every social phenomenon that occurs around
them. The tradition that exists in semiotic theory has the core of communication seen as
a mediation or intersubjective transition between signs. Communication media explain
and develop that the use of language and other sign systems is a form of exchange or
mediation between various perspectives. The problems that exist in the communication
media in the semiotic paradigm are problems of representation and transmission of
meaning, in this case, there is a gap or void between subjectivity which is overcome
through the use of agreed signs (Hasbullah, 2020)
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
https://edunity.publikasikupublisher.com
1081
At least every day humans think about what clothes to wear from clothes to accessories.
This makes fashion a lifestyle. Lifestyle determination occurs due to the habit of
socializing or activities with the environment of his choice so that the choice of lifestyle
provisions with a group of people who have references, is the same as fashion (Çelebi et
al., 2017). The formation of characteristics in fashion because of the choice of a group. If
it is an individual then it will be called style not fashion (Hendariningrum & Susilo,
2014). There is a choice of style to become fashion when it is adopted by more than one
person. In addition, fashion can be used as a way to identify someone by how they dress.
The selection of clothes to accessories will appear depending on the purpose or event to
be addressed.
Modern society defines lifestyle regarding one's attitudes, values, wealth, and social
position (Sukirno, 2017). The connotation of the term lifestyle according to modern
society is individualism, self-expression, and self-awareness for style. Indicators of an
individualist are found in the body, clothing, way of speaking, entertainment during free
time, choices in food and drink, place of residence, vehicles, and information choices
(Rachmawati, 2013). The phenomenon of the lifestyle of the Indonesian people can be
explained by the fact that the Indonesian consumer society grows along with the history
of economic globalization and the transformation of consumer capitalism which is
marked by the proliferation of shopping centers (Hendariningrum & Susilo, 2008).
Research Method
The method used in this research is qualitative. Describe qualitative research as research
that aims to explain a phenomenon that is discussed in depth in the collection of data
that has been sought. Nawawi and Hadari, describe the definition of qualitative as a set
of activities or processes of network information in natural conditions in the life of an
object. The qualitative research carried out is inductive, where inductive reasoning flows
of thought originate from several specific facts and then become general (Wijaya, 2020).
Then it is connected with solving a problem both from a theoretical and practical
perspective.
Furthermore, this study uses a semiotic theoretical approach such as Roland Barthes,
focusing on the idea of two-stage signification (two orders of signification) which
significance The first stage is the relationship between the signifier (marker) and
signified (sign) in a sign-to-external reality. The designation made by Barthes is
denotation, which is the most obvious meaning of the sign, and connotation is the term
used by Barthes to indicate the second stage of significance. On significance the second
stage is related to content, the sign works through myth (Wibisono & Sari, 2021).
In this study, the authors collected secondary data from several studies and library
research that had been filtered by selected authors that were similar to the research topic.
The selected literature studies and research are in the form of publication documents
and then used as research information data. In addition, the unit of analysis in this study
Vol. 2, No. 9, 2023
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
1082
Farisya Inayatullah, Deddy Wahjudi
is photographs. Then, the author will make observations on the photo and will review it
to make a description and summary that aims to explain and understand the differences
in the observed photos.
Result And Discussion
Semiotics generally aim to analyze the meaning of signs in the world of art and design
which is nothing new. An example from the world of design, quoted from the journal
by A'yun Nikmatus Shalekhah and Martadi with the title Roland Barthes Semiotic
Analysis on the film posterParasite English country version. From the poster, the author
explores the meaning of the object available poster and then describe the meaning of the
picture the.
Semiotics on fashion
In the journal, (Suharno et al., 2021) discusses semiotics as a construction method for
creating clothing. It was explained that there was no research on the use of semiotics to
construct signs in clothing, this issue deserves research because it can be one of the
formation of visual signs in works fashion both from the visual and the meaning that
can be built. Some experts allude to semiotic theories that discuss clothing, such as Klaus
Krippendorff in Vihma and Väkevä ed. (Pramasheilla, 2021) explains the semiotics of
use in the context of design products except clothing. Meanwhile, Danesi (2010)
discusses how clothing and fashion provide space for everyone and create meaning for
their message. Some examples of clothing specific to motifs in Indonesia have their own
meaning (Poernamasari, 2019). First, in the tradition of the Yogyakarta palace, there is a
prohibition on wearing batik with motifs. This happens because it is constructed and
then produces a symbolic meaning that indicates the social class of the wearer. Next is
the broken machete motif. according to the book Batik: Fable Cloth of Java by Inger Mc
CabeElliot, the motif on the machete may not be used by ordinary people because it has
a meaning that implies the strength and growth worn by the king (Suharno et al., 2021).
The phenomenon in batik that has been discussed previously is related to the
proposition Barnard (1996:26) says that fashion and clothing are forms of nonverbal
communication in that they do not use spoken or written words. Barnard's point of view
is relevant because clothing is a sign of the existence of the wearer, in the context of a
certain time and space. In other words, the clothes a person wears are an implicit "order
of words" to convey a certain message (Situmorang, 2020). This message is packaged
through constructions on collective and/or individual signs that can be explained
semiotically through icons, indexes, and symbols (Suharno et al., 2021). Understanding
semiotics as an approach to analyzing phenomenal fashion requires a semiotic approach
that seeks to find cultural meaning in clothing or uses visual semiotics to understand art.
The basis of the discussion of the semiotic approach to phenomenal fashion is found in
the book Fashion System by Roland Barthes. The first book published in French is
entitled system in 1967. In the book, Barthes tries to distinguish three types of clothing,
namely (1)image clothing, clothing shown as a photo or image; (2)written clothing,
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
https://edunity.publikasikupublisher.com
1083
clothing that is described in writing or translated into a language; and (3)real clothing,
clothing that is worn on the human body or clothing as an object (Barthes, 1983: 3 - 5;
Barthes 1981: 25 - 27). Through this semiotic approach, the aim is to understand how
clothing can function as image clothing and real clothing as signs in the process of
meaning production and construction (Himawan, 2018).
Application of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory to UrbanFashion
The term fashion is known in people's daily lives. Fashion is also associated with new
elements or novelty, so characteristics of fashion are usually temporary rather than
eternal. Because fashion keeps changing, fashion is often associated with clothing.
According to Thio (1989), as long as there is something new about an artifact that
involves many people, then the artifact can become fashionable. As can be seen from
fashion has a semiotic value, namely the side of denotation and connotation, fashion is
one of the creative industries that is experiencing rapid development every year. This is
not only reflected in the trends that emerge from time to time but also in the many
creative industries that are oriented toward fashion and many fashion shows in the
world (Novidia & Nanda, 2015).
According to Sobur (2004), the terminology of semiotics is a science that has a broad
scope of objects, events, and all cultures as signs. Signs (signs) are the basis of all
communication. Clothing as a cultural phenomenon is a practice of meaning in everyday
life that helps shape culture as a system of meaning. According to Kris Budiman, the
signifier is a sign element that looks like physical or material, while the signified is the
mental concept or meaning referred to by the signifier. These two elements produce
forms of verbal and visual signs. According to this view, explaining that clothing and its
parts are signs related to signs as something meaningful. In other words, the parts that
make up a garment can be treated as a sign consisting of a signifier and a signified. Here's
an urban example fashion which will be described through semiotic theory according to
the characters in the pictures provided by the author.
Picture 1. Urban ExampleFashion (Source: Pinterest)
Vol. 2, No. 9, 2023
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
1084
Farisya Inayatullah, Deddy Wahjudi
The denotation in the picture above describes that women wear suits with dominating
light colors, choosing oversized pieces of clothes and pants or oversized and thick
patterns of clothes, and the shoes worn are of a comfortable type. Complete the outfit
with accessories such as earrings, glasses, and rings. So that the connotation is, someone
who wears or chooses urban fashion most are concerned with comfort because these
clothes will be worn all day long. In addition, bright colors on clothes aim to highlight
or express yourself. There is no escape from the character, the nature of individualism
is shown in bright-colored clothes so that other people or those who pass by see their
clothes. The myth of urban users' fashion has a rebellious nature. The intention of the
rebels is those who choose urban fashion like to mix types of style like formal mixed
with casual In addition, urban users' fashion doesn't follow the trend. They choose and
wear clothes according to their own will
Conclusion
The use of the semiotic theory explained by Roland Barthes can elaborate on the meaning
of events from pieces of art to places. The phenomenon of urban fashion can be
understood through semiotics as an approach to analyzing this phenomenon trying to
find cultural meaning in clothing or using visual semiotics to understand fine arts.
Urban, which is a phenomenon in society, actually has an impact on lifestyle, so the
fashion industry is one of the results of its impact.
Bibliography
Çelebi, E., Gündogdu, C., & Kizilkaya, A. (2017). Determination of Healthy Lifestyle
Behaviors of High School Students. Universal Journal of Educational Research, 5(8),
1279–1287. Google Scholar
Hasbullah, M. (2020). Hubungan Bahasa, Semiotika dan Pikiran dalam Berkomunikasi.
Al-Irfan: Journal of Arabic Literature and Islamic Studies, 3(1), 106–124. Google
Scholar
Hendariningrum, R., & Susilo, M. E. (2014). Fashion dan gaya hidup: identitas dan
komunikasi. Jurnal Ilmu Komunikasi, 6(1), 25–32. Google Scholar
Himawan, S. (2018). Representasi Pornografi Pada Media Sosial (Analisis Semiotika
Pierce Pada Aplikasi Bigo Live). Jurnal Bina Saran Informatika, 24, 79–96. Google
Scholar
Muhammadiah, M. ud. (2017). Setajam Bahasa Jurnalistik (Analisa Semiotika Teks Berita
Dalam Surat Kabar). Pustaka AQ Publishing House. Google Scholar
Novidia, R. I. A., & Nanda, A. (2015). Analisis Semiotika Pesan Simbolik Ragam Fashion Do
It Yourself Komunitas Mikipiji Makassar. Google Scholar
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
https://edunity.publikasikupublisher.com
1085
Poernamasari, N. (2019). Representasi Pola Cyberbullying pada Fenomena “Anak
Jaksel”(Analisis Semiotika Bahasa “Anak Jaksel” di Twitter). Master Program in
Communication Science. Google Scholar
Pramasheilla, D. A. A. (2021). Penerapan Analisis Semiotika Ferdinand De Saussure
Dalam Pertunjukan Kethoprak Ringkes. Indonesian Journal of Performing Arts
Education, 1(2), 16–23. Google Scholar
Rachmawati, I. (2013). Dasar-dasar Teori Cross Cultural Understanding. In Encephale
(Vol. 53, Issue 1, pp. 59–65). STKIP PGRI Bangkalan Press. Google Scholar
Sihabudin, H. A. (2022). Komunikasi antarbudaya: Satu perspektif multidimensi. Bumi
Aksara. Google Scholar
Situmorang, M. (2020). Makna Komunikasi Nonverbal Dalam Upacara Adat. Universitas
Komputer Indonesia. Google Scholar
Suharno, S., Fitra, A., & Ganefiani, S. (2021). Semiotika Busana: Model Konstruksi
Tanda dalam Penciptaan Busana. Panggung, 31(4). Google Scholar
Sukirno, F. S. (2017). Pergeseran gaya hidup masyarakat sub urban area di kota
mojokerto. Paradigma, 5(1). Google Scholar
Wibisono, P., & Sari, Y. (2021). Analisis Semiotika Roland Barthes Dalam Film Bintang
Ketjil Karya Wim Umboh Dan Misbach Yusa Bira. Jurnal Dinamika Ilmu
Komunikasi, 7(1), 30–43. Google Scholar
Wijaya, H. (2020). Analisis data kualitatif teori konsep dalam penelitian pendidikan. Sekolah
Tinggi Theologia Jaffray. Google Scholar
Vol. 2, No. 9, 2023
[Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an
Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion]
1086
Farisya Inayatullah, Deddy Wahjudi